Hole In The Boat, V. 2.0. Port Light Rebedding

“I’m so happy to have found a leak on my boat!” she says with a big smile. The expressions on others’ faces are astounded, confused, or horrified.

“OK, how about I finally LOCATED a leak on my boat!” The response is definitely more congratulatory, occasionally tinged with a little sadness or jealousy.  Rubigale’s starboard side has been plagued with leaks since I bought her in the summer of 2014.

Once the torrential downpours of the Seattle fall appeared, drips ran down the overhang in the salon and puddled on the shelf. One of the three screws that holds in my barometer would cry every time it rained. I started finding things in the starboard aft berth wet, requiring everything to live in a plastic bin.

I thought I had it solved when I replaced one of the larger windows in the salon after I spotted dampness at the corner, and although the leaking seemed to have lessened, it was definitely still there. I tried caulking the toe rail and honestly most anything that looked caulk-able. I had the rigging tuned, and the shroud plates were rebedded in the process.

Still, the insides of cabinets mildewed and were regularly vinegared and bleached. Every time it rained, a pile of boat rags came out to soak the puddles, and on a particularly hard pour, a few pots came out as well. The bilge pump would come on. The dehumidifier got a workout. The headliner remained mysteriously dry.

There was old water staining around the aft-most starboard port light, but all six of them were brand new when I purchased the boat and I assumed that the new ones were the fix for that problem. I began to blame the jib track and the bow hardware, and started to wrap my mind around how to do all of these things, or what it would cost to hire someone to do it.

Everyone knows it rains a lot in Seattle, but it is typically a persistent mist rather than the torrential downpours I remember in Mississippi. Recently, Seattle experienced one of those deluges and I caught the leak from the port light red-handed! I had already rebedded one window, and this was so much smaller and seemed easier. You can probably see where this is going.

Preparing to Wrestle This Port Light Out

Preparing to Wrestle

This Came off Much Too Easily

This Came off Much Too Easily

Since it was a different type of window, I watched a YouTube video on the process and felt I was ready to go. I unscrewed the inner portion of the port light with it’s spigot and removed it easily. I had expected it to be much more difficult because some veneer is torn away from a couple of the ones in the V-berth, suggesting it was going to be a bear. With the larger window, there had been screws attaching the inside frame to the outside frame to create compression for the sealant. None of that was here. The inside was screwed to the wood and the spigot extended to the outside of the fiberglass where a trim piece was simply adhered with some sort of sealant which was pressed into the gap. The trim piece was also easily (too easily) removed and staining on the underside and on the fiberglass showed where the leak was happening.

Staining Where Water Intrusion Was Occurring

Staining Where Water Intrusion Was Occurring

Area Where the Leak Was Damaging the Wood

Area Where the Leak Was Damaging the Wood

I’m fortunate to have solid fiberglass, so there was no soggy core. There is a small gap between the fiberglass and the wood walls which was where most of the water had been going. The side of the wood facing the fiberglass was soggy and spongy in the area of the leak. The uncharacteristic 90 degree weather helped it dry out over a day with the assistance of a fan. Meanwhile, I started looking for answers. Why didn’t the screws connect the inside to the outside? How could you achieve a seal without the compression?

It was time to phone a friend. John, who had helped me replace the larger window, came over and looked at it, and agreed that it just didn’t seem correct. We made a field trip to the marine store and described the problem and brought the port light. After tossing around some ideas, a solution was proffered to cut a larger hole in the wood so that the inside section of the window would be directly against the fiberglass! To say I was skeptical, and a little bit horrified was an understatement. I said I’d think about it and picked up the type of sealant that was recommended for plastic.

Through-bolting the Port Light

Through-bolting the Port Light

Sealant Used

Sealant Used

It was time for a glass of wine and more research. It’s amazing what you can discover when you read the instructions. There were very clear directions (with pictures) on how to through bolt the window for a solid wall as well as a multi-layered wall like mine. There is 1/4” of fiberglass, 1/4” of space, then 1/4” of veneered plywood on the inside.

The solution was to fill the gap as much as possible with closed cell spray foam to provide some structure for the gap under compression. I dreaded this part because I have had a few experiences with this stuff in old houses that were pretty messy. I made a part list of screws, barrel nuts, mineral spirits and the foam and went shopping.

Closed Cell Foam

Closed Cell Foam

Closed Cell Foam in the Gap

Closed Cell Foam in the Gap

The following day the wood seemed dry and I filled the gap with the spray foam. Every time I revisited the opening, more foam had expanded out and had to be cut away, but by the next morning it seemed pretty solid and ready to go. The wood felt dry. Now it was time to drill holes in my boat which scares the living daylights out of me, so I again phoned a friend.

 

Using the Trim Piece as a Template for the Fiberglass

Trim Piece as Template

That Side Whole was a PAIN

That Side Hole was a PAIN

Following the recommendations on the company website, we drilled holes through the trim piece and the fiberglass to match those in the wood where the spigot was attached. Due to the placement of one of the shrouds, lining up one of the holes was next to impossible which was remedied by making a slightly bigger hole (giving me slightly more anxiety). The edges of the holes and the main opening were chamfered so they could accommodate more sealant. The product recommended to stick to both plastic and fiberglass was Sudbury Elastomeric Marine Sealant.

Installation Complete!

Installation Complete!

Once the fiberglass dust was cleaned up and a dry fit done, it was a fairly simple job with two people to get it sealed and the bolts threaded into the barrel head nuts on the inside. I used plenty of sealant, resigning myself to a big clean up, but erring on the side of too much.

I’m very happy to report that after a couple of pretty hard rains, the window, the barometer and the shelf remain dry! There’s still the leak somewhere behind the oven, and I still have 5 more port lights to rebed, but for now, Rubi is drier than she has been in the last two years.

 

Update August 30, 2016- I am deliriously happy to say that after two crossings of the Strait of Georgia, the starboard side is DRY!

First Speedy Stitcher Project

I’ve had a plethora of sewing projects swirling around in my brain but had been lacking the impetus to get started on any of them.  Recently motivation has increased and I’ve purchased a few supplies for some of these plans. I was lucky to already have UV thread and sail tape for a recent spinnaker repair, but some edging was looking a little dodgy and I wanted to take care of it then and there but my little sewing machine was it up to the task. I found the Speedy Stitcher online as well as a great instructional video by Sailrite and thought I could put this to use.

The Speedy Stitcher

The Speedy Stitcher

It didn’t take long for the opportunity to present itself. I am rather new to using my spinnaker and was truly hoping the sock (AKA Snuffer) would make it easy to use. I tested this theory last weekend during a no-wind race and found there were still problems to overcome. Twisting at the top was a major issue and the swivel at the head of the spinnaker should have let the twist release. Unfortunately the pin that extends from the head of the sock to the head of the spinnaker wasn’t quite long enough to expose the swivel and let it do its job.

Sock bar attachment to spinnaker head swivel

Sock bar attachment to spinnaker head swivel

After a little research, a pennant made of webbing, similar to the dog ear in the video seemed to be the simplest solution. I already had a high rated tubular webbing, UV thread and the Speedy Stitcher.

I guessed that I needed another 5 or 6 inches of distance from the end of the bar and took a little over twice the length of webbing because I wanted at least 4 bars of stitching (this is not a true “bar stitch” ) for strength. After disconnecting the bar shackle and the spinnaker swivel I threaded the webbing through each and overlapped about three inches.

Measuring webbing

Measuring webbing

I started with the box or “x” stitch shown on the Sailrite video. On my test webbing I found the larger needle and thicker twine difficult to work with so I used my UV T90 polyester thread and a smaller #4 needle. This was much easier for me to handle but required some hand winding on the bobbin. The smaller thread doesn’t stay wrapped around the tension post as well as the heavier twine so I had to keep a thumb on it much of the time.

My first row, needs work

My first row, needs work

I ended up with 5 total bars of box stitches and I am feeling very good about the overall strength- we will soon see if I am right. As I neared the end of the fourth bar I started to get excited about finally writing about a project where I didn’t spill my own blood.  I won’t be writing that for this project.

All 5 rows done and a very strong webbing pennant extends the head of the spinnaker another 5" down the sock

All 5 rows done and a very strong webbing pennant extends the head of the spinnaker another 5″ down the sock

Shazam is ready to fly!

For a little interesting history, check out the Speedy Stitcher website.  It is an American made product that has been in demand on farms, sailboats and leather working industries since 1909!

Project Loops

Have you ever experienced the never ending project loop? loopThe one where in order to do A, you have to do B.  But B would really be a half assed job if you didn’t do C first.  But to do C, you really ought to finish D which you put off because you needed to do A in order to do E which is needed to really do D correctly. Maybe I should start at Z in the future?

Perhaps an example would help.

I had to patch a hole in my spinnaker, so I dug out the sewing machine and found the UV thread I had purchased last year.  I was confronted with a few yards of canvas I also purchased on sale  for some projects I never got around to doing.  Since the sewing machine was out, I thought I should inventory the items I had on hand and rethink the projects I had wanted them for. My mind raced with ideas after watching a few Sailrite videos and buying a Speedy Stitcher since my old machine couldn’t handle the edging on the sail.spinnaker repair

Prior to the spinnaker repair, I had been racking my brain on how to better organize clothes storage on my 32′ live-aboard boat.  I longed to see that eye-catching tidy salon that caught my eye when I bought it rather than the storage unit it was becoming. Just to see a foot or two of empty settee would be an improvement.

I aired out all of my sweaters that had been in a drawer under the settee and smelled of old boat and diesel. I noticed that two of my favorite wool sweaters had a small hole in them.  Luckily, since I had just taken some of my sewing supplies out of the dark cubbies of the boat, I could quickly sew up these holes and get them packed away with the other sweaters. It would only take about 10 or 15 minutes.

And so it begins. 

I had some other nifty sewing related items on the way for a hatch cover and I wanted to make a specific sail/canvas repair box that could be quickly grabbed and would have the appropriate needles, palm, UV thread, etc in it which was separate from regular indoor sewing supplies.  I knew exactly which of the many storage bins I wanted – one with a lid with a handle. This particular bin was currently in the pantry and home to a bunch of soup cans and canned chicken.  Damn. Fortunately, I had found shelves that would fit in the pantry and give me twice as much storage space and they were just waiting for the opportunity to be put into use.

19:30: I removed the back cushion on the starboard settee where the “pantry” lives. It stays nice and cool there, but unfortunately there are still some un-located leaks and condensation that cause it to be damp so everything sits inside one of a few plastic bins.  I had to remove another bin to get to the one I thought would be perfect for my repair kit.  As I did this I thought I should take a bit of an inventory of what I had hidden in this space.  Mistake #1.

Instead of sewing a couple of tiny holes in two sweaters, I cleaned out the entire pantry.  I culled numerous things from some smaller sectioned organizers which were deep in the recesses. Items that did not make the cut – finishing nails and screws that I was sure were not for a marine environment, a jib track fitting that had long since lost it’s screw which would cost more to replace than a new fitting, two large shackles which were forever frozen and would never be functional, nuts and bolts from shelving I had in college, stick pins with colorful ends for notes on a cork board I no longer had, and the list went on. Four organizers were reduced to three, and then to two. Progress! The two sweaters still sat on the table waiting.

21:00: Now that the pantry was empty…I felt I should clean it before I put things back in.  Mistake #2 – putting an LED lamp in there. Now bleach water, a scrub brush, and a roll of paper towels were going to be involved.

21:30: While fishing by hand for the scrub brush under the sink, I realized that one of the shelves I had might fit there.  Everything came out of the under-sink cupboard.  One shelf fit, and all the ziplock and tinfoil and garbage bags fit in nicely.  Success! Hmmm, where was I? Oh! Pantry.

22:00: I was shocked how much ick could accumulate since I cleaned the pantry in the fall. I bleached and scrubbed, re-directed the light, then did it again.  Who paints the inside of a dark recess on a boat brown??!! I already have the BilgeKote…thank goodness the paint roller wasn’t within reach.

IMG_424222:30: I rehashed what to do with a strange P.O. (previous owner) SNAFU at the end of the settee where a large hole had been cut in the wood and fiberglass taped back in place.  Looks like a good place for a liquor cabinet, but how do I cover up the ugly that was done there? I put shelves in and re-organized the pantry. I didn’t like it. I re-did it.  I added a piece of closed cell foam so things wouldn’t slide. It’s passable.

23:00: I can barely keep my eyes open.  This could be due to exhaustion, bleach or mildew at this point. The sweaters still sat on the table. I had a friend with guests arriving in the morning for a sail, so I needed to clean up my mess. Maybe I could do it first thing in the morning? Time to tidy up, which means throwing everything in the V-berth and sleeping with it.

23:45: No way I’m sewing the holes in those damn sweaters today. Peace out.IMG_4243

April, Sun, Repairs and Upgrades!

 

Logan enjoying the weather, April 2016

Logan enjoying the weather, April 2016

The worst of the long days of winter in the PNW have passed, we are getting teasers of summer sun in April, and things are looking up.   November to March is a hard time in this part of the country…made better by cruising, friends and cocktails, but we all look forward to later sunsets and weather that beckons the windows to stay open. Logan has been venturing outside to watch the ducks and seagulls and catch a few rays of sun. Although our organizational projects aren’t quite getting to where they should be, some upgrades and repairs have been happening!

Shiny new Dickinson Newport to keep us WARM!

Shiny new Dickinson Newport to keep us WARM!

We have a new Dickinson Newport bulkhead diesel heater to replace the 40+ year old non-functional heater that came with the boat and was attempting to set us on fire.  As upgrades go, this is a big one! Logan and I can now hang out on a mooring ball or at anchor in comfort!  The one down side is that for there to be enough draft the chimney needs to be 4 ft tall from the top of the heater.  Technically that worked out to about 10″ above deck, but the reality was, that for the fuel to not burn too rich I still needed more draft so the chimney is about 33″ above deck.  We obviously can’t sail with this in place, so it needs to be detached and capped while sailing. Aesthetically…looks awkward. Fortunately it’s pretty easy to remove and cap, and the cabin is a nice 70 degrees on the first setting, burning very little diesel. This definitely puts us back to a more mobile situation in the colder months.  The Caframo eco fan is an extra bonus!  I had noticed these on other people’s boats and was amazed at how powerful and quiet they were, using only the heat generated by the stove – what a great idea! http://www.amazon.com/Caframo-800CAXBX-Limited-Original-Ecofan/dp/B00P8E14K8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460955116&sr=8-1&keywords=caframo+ecofan+original    Another new trick I learned from S/V Cambria was to use Sterno to get the initial fire going which heats the cup. This was something I would never have thought of and it made my life so much better!

Rubigale upgraded to two new house batteries due to the fact that the old ones were 1. old, 2. I wrecked them because I didn’t know what I was doing.  Thank you JM for helping me with that. We decided on some lower maintenance sealed batteries, which are a bit more expensive, but in the long run it will likely benefit both myself and the batteries. The engine battery still appears to be in good shape despite my ownership.

New scupper in the toe rail. Ignore the brightwork (or lack thereof - work in progress).

New scupper in the toe rail. Ignore the brightwork (or lack thereof – work in progress).

Two new scuppers were carved into the toe rail (thank you AS) and you should see the water flow!  Rubi may sit differently now than originally designed due to her water tanks and anchor chain, and the water doesn’t drain well to the back of the cockpit and quite a bit sits at the beam rather than going further aft where the two original scuppers are located.  We are still battling leak issues (from above, not below!) so anywhere I can avoid water accumulating is a good thing.  The scuppers are a rough cut that need a little sanding to make them look like the others, but I have a feeling deck drainage will improve right away and hopefully less green will collect there.

 

Typical way for me to start a job

Typical way for me to start a job

I finally replaced the manual pump for the head and changed the joker valve a couple of weeks ago.  I had dreaded and procrastinated doing this job for a year.  The situation was dire.  It took forever to get anything to go down and the pump was very stiff.  Wait 5 seconds and some of what you pumped came back for an encore and brought along its own applause.

Finally, frustration won out over fear and dread.  It turns out that the re-build kit for a Jabsco pump is almost the same price as a new pump.  Buying the whole pump saved me some disassembly and replacing of rubber bits.  There’s a great Jabsco youtube video online https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0wxX2789F8 that I watched twice and went to work.

Joker valve after 1 year

Joker valve after 1 year

I had to replace the joker valve and the flapper which were not functioning properly due to a calcified toothpaste consistency goo that was present after only a year ( I had all the sanitation replaced before I moved aboard). The edges of the valve weren’t making contact which was allowing all of those encores and burps.  I’ve done the vinegar overnight trick, and I wonder what would happen if I hadn’t. There was more in the start of the tube just past the joker valve but it was still soft enough to wipe away. I’m happy to say that with the exception of a little blood (which happens if I even look at a hose clamp) everything went well.  (Yes, I wore gloves) The worst part was actually disconnecting the hoses, and the Jabsco video give a recommendation to save you from doing one of them. In the end I did need to use a few seconds of butane torch to soften the hose.  For something I put off for so long – it was actually quite easy and makes life on board just a little bit better. Joker valve is on 6 mo list.

I scrubbed the layer of fur off the rudder last weekend, and the whole bottom is due for an inspection and wipe down next week.  I’m sure we won’t notice that 0.01 knots we gain in speed (mostly because my knot meter died a slow death of condensation over the last two winters), but it’s always nice to have a clean bottom!

Next up – a power wash to get the wintergreen off (I will never chew that flavor of gum again), recaulking of the toe rail, and with some help, rebedding all the bow hardware.  Then some clean up and reorganizing in the leaky quarterberth.

Spring isn’t all chores….we had a great sunny sail last Saturday and I got to try out my new hammock on the bow on Sunday.  This weekend Logan and I sailed to Blake Island and caught the last mooring ball.  A little later our neighbors came around the corner and rafted to us and it was a nice relaxing night and a great sail today.   Thank you April for taking pity on we poor Seattleites.  Please put in a good word for us with May.

Facebook Auto Publish Powered By : XYZScripts.com